After we finished lounging around in Tamagawa Onsen, we drove another 30 minutes to check out Goshogake Onsen. Like Tamagawa, Goshogake has a volcanic field you can explore. However, its abundance of boiling mud meant it was a completely different experience.
As soon as we cleared the trees, we saw steam rising from the ground. When we got closer, we saw pools of bubbling muddy water on the right. On the left was a gurgling mud volcano that periodically spit up small chunks of mud.
We continued up the path and a flight of stairs to a sign in Japanese and English! It told the story of two steam vents located below the hill. The vents are called Oname (‘mistress’) and Motome (‘wife’). The story goes that a young man got sick while he was herding cattle. A young woman helped him get better, and they fell in love. Eventually, the man’s wife found him. The young woman, not wanting to breakup their marriage, threw herself into a steam vent and died. The wife, moved by her sacrifice, also threw herself into a steam vent and died. Now, the steam vents are named after them.
Walking along the path dotted with mini mud volcanoes and vents…
…we eventually rounded a corner and could hear a deep, thick, gurgling sound. We had reached them — the largest mud volcanoes in Japan! They weren’t quite as impressive as I thought they’d be, just mounds of mud that coughed up more mud every once in a while. They didn’t even look that big! Then I read on a nearby sign that the mud by the volcanoes was 8 feet deep. No thank you!
We continued on the path. On our way, we saw a trail that was closed off — it looked like a mud volcano had sprung up too close to the path. The mud they spit up is super hot, so it would be too dangerous to let people continue walking there.
However, all of this paled in comparison to what lay at the top of a flight of stairs back on the main path. When we reached the top, we found ourselves faced with a giant lake of sulfuric water. This, was Oyunuma Pond.
As we stood, awestruck, watching the steam rise from the bright blue water, I noted the trail that led around the lake. We immediately went to it and walked for a little ways before the trail was roped off. “Danger,” the signs said. “Do not enter.” Back the other way, we came to an observation deck where we could see the lake better. Trails of mud floated in the water, and we could even see, on the far side, the remnants of the trail — and where a huge mud volcano had grown right in the middle of it. It seemed that this lake was actually growing, having consumed part of the walking trail! No wonder they closed the path, that’s a disaster waiting to happen!
More Information
- There is one ryokan by the front of the park with baths. Day trippers can use the baths too, for ￥600. I didn’t visit them, but apparently you can spread some of the mud on yourself there!
- English: Good!
- This area is a bit difficult to access in winter, so plan accordingly. The link below has more details under the ‘access’ tab.
- Here’s the link for the ryokan (Japanese only). It looks like you can make reservations online!
